Blackhead Lighthouse

Located in the Burren (landscape of rocks, stones and hard surfaces) which forms the northern part of County Clare, Ireland.

"Not a tree whereon to hang a man; no water in which to drown him; no soil in which to bury him." 

 A description of the Burren from Ludow's Memoirs 1651 (a little dramatic, but you get the idea...the burren is barren).

The cycle; well as usual I hadn't properly researched this. It was late in the afternoon that day when we decided to embark on the journey. My memory tells me I was suffering with a debilitating condition; Hangover. Sure, we were at a pub in Doolin when we decided to set off. I distinctly remember saying 'really, it can only be 30 minutes cycle, we'll be back in no time'...famous last words. The cycle was actually close to 20km...each way! And not only that, it was mighty hills. There may have been blood, there was definitely sweat and tears.

The lighthouse as you might expect is right on the coast, close to shore, behind a wall (this might make you miss it altogether). Push pass the gate that says 'caution, no entry', and walk down the stone steps to the lighthouse. It was established on 21st February 1936. In 2002 it was changed to a solar powered light. You get a spectacular view of the west coast from here, which is more than I can say about the lighthouse (it's quite ugly right?)

Charles Fort Lighthouse

Located within Charles Fort, Kinsale, County Cork. This is my most frequented lighthouse as it is the shortest distance from my front door than any other lighthouse (at the moment) Just a 30 minute drive. 

Photo by Rory Bhandari

It functions as a directional light, marking the way to safe anchorage close to Kinsale. In 1665 King Charles II gave permission for six lighthouses on the coast of Ireland to be erected. This location being one of them (which back then would have been Barry Oge's castle, later to become Charles Fort).The original structure would have had a coal fire on its roof (in which case the term 'firehouse' seems more appropriate than lighthouse?) The current structure was built as a replacement in 1929, which makes it much younger than other lighthouses on this coast, most of which date back to the 19th century.  

It was converted to mains power in 2004 marking the end of a long era of gas and oil powered lighthouses in Ireland. 

I like this lighthouse, mostly because you can climb it (strictly speaking you shouldn't, but you can't really be seen once you're up there). The view is amazing and you can swing your legs off the side and look out towards the Old Head. 

A flask is recommended too!

Mine Head Lighthouse

Located in Old Parish, County Waterford. This lighthouse was designed by George Halpin Senior, who was a prominent lighthouse builder of his time (considered the founding father of the Irish lighthouse service). Mine Head lighthouse was established on the 1st June 1851 (same day as Ballycotton lighthouse!), and it's looking pretty good to say it's that old. It is a red standstone structure, painted white with a black band (but you can see that right?) While reading up on the history, it was described as a 'four stage lighthouse'...I can assume this means it has 4 levels, including the top level, which would be the lantern. It is said to be Ireland's highest lighthouse! Not to be confused with tallest, it's all to do with sea level and such... being higher above sea level (88m) than any other lighthouse in Ireland. You'd believe it when you see how steep the cliffs are...

Getting there was quite tricky...I'm lucky I had a navigator accompanying me that could help read the map. The roads are many, and we could have turned wrong a few times. We were a little hesitant, but persisted past a farmhouse for about a mile and reached the lighthouse gate (and a few cows). Yes, there's a gate, a tall one. We climbed over, then on leaving, realised it was actually open....

I like Mine Head in particular because it brings together two of my favourite things...lighthouses and beer! Dungarvan Brewing Company produces Irish craft beers, and have Mine Head as their logo (hence why it's my favourite beer to drink out). They have various varieties including stout, red ale, pale ale and a larger and some others. They have one aptly named 'Mine Head', it's an American pale ale, it's pretty tasty! 

  

Cromwell Point Lighthouse (Valentia Island)

Located on Valentia Island, County Kerry, Ireland. A hop, skip and a jump from the Ring of Kerry. We got the ferry over with bikes from Reenard Point, though you can also get across via a bridge from Portmagee. Valentia is far from a bike riders dream...hills and bumpy roads. The long winding road down to the lighthouse (pictured below) was no exception. Riding down was great, riding back up was a slow, painful torture. 

Cromwell Point Lighthouse is maintained by the Commissioner of Irish Lights and is a harbour light to guide vessels from the sea and lead them through the northern entrance of Valentia Harbour, past Harbour Rock.

The site of the lighthouse was originally home to a Cromwell Fleetwood Fort believed to have been built in the 16th century, which was one of two built of Valentia Island around this time.

The first light for Cromwell Point was first applied for in 1828 by the Right Honorary Maurice Fitzgerald (Knight of Kerry!) Work commenced on the lighthouse ten years later in 1838, the light was first exhibited on the 1st February 1941. 

Originally the lighthouse was staffed by a single keeper, housed with his family on site. However with automation in 1947 the keeper was withdrawn and a part time attendant was appointed. 

In  June 2013 the lighthouse was opened to the public (unknown to us), and this is the time we were visiting. We arrived at the gate on our bikes and were shocked to see the gates were open (never the case with lighthouses).  We speedily cycled in, eager to get to the lighthouse, when suddenly we heard shouting behind us...apparently we had to pay in and be part of a tour. I was delighted, as this would lead to a rare opportunity to get inside a lighthouse!

I'd recommend Valentia Island to all, even if you don't make it to the lighthouse. It is also the home to a tetrapod track (footprints from some animal believed to have been created 350 million years ago!). It's of high importance discovery wise as it provides some of the oldest evidence of a water dwelling creature crawling out of the water and making an evolutionary step towards land dwelling. 

Ardnakinna Lighthouse

Located on Bere Island, an Island off the Beara Peninsula in County Cork, Ireland. A ferry takes you over to the island from Castletownbere. We rented bikes and brought them onto the ferry, thinking that since we were short on time (2 hours until the last ferry departs) it would be a speedy means of getting to the lighthouse. I actually don't like riding bikes, but when it comes to lighthouses they are handy...BUT, (and it is a big but) we shortly reached a point in our journey that no bike could continue on. We abandoned the bikes and continued on foot. I should really start researching the lighthouses and routes before, not after the expedition.

So given I didn't know how far the lighthouse was, we were walking pretty briskly, while also trying to take in all the stunning scenery! And every time we approached a hill, I filled with excitement and hope that there would be a lighthouse over it (I think Dominika was even excited). That moment came just in time, as we were approaching 'we should probably head back soon' kinda conversations...

OK, so the lighthouse itself...it's big! The tower was originally constructed in 1850 as an unlit beacon to mark the entrance to Castletownbere. It was left in the care of a local man, who remained the caretaker until 1963 when the tower was capped and 'his services dispensed with' (doesn't that sound horrible?).

115 years passed, and there was a lot of talk over whether this beacon would come back to life..finally in 1965 the beacon was converted into a full and almighty lighthouse with the addition of an ex-lightship lantern (see up-cycling has been going on for years already). 

The lighthouse is looked after by an attendant who lives at Castletownbere helicopter base. He is also the attendant for two other lights...cool job (where do I apply?!). He is a messy guy though, this lighthouse junk was in the surrounding area. The lighthouse has recently turned green in that it's removal of the diesal generator and installation of fancy low power LED has made it eco friendly. I'm thinking this junk is what's left from the transition... I looked for something cool to steal, but it really was just junk. 

If your not a lighthousey person, I'd still highly reccomend this walk to the lighthouse. The views from this point are nothing but beautiful, even on a somewhat foggy day. With views across to Sheep's Head and Mizen Head you may even spot some more lighthouses! 

Roches Point Lighthouse

Located at the entrance to Cork harbour Ireland. This was my first glance at the lighthouse from a telescope in Crosshaven. It would be another 2 years before I got to it up close...

I did consider swimming over...

So there's a bit of a background story to this lighthouse, let me explain it as briefly as I can....There was a want for a lighthouse here in 1813 as it was noted that vessels entering Cork harbour were in danger. It was agreed by the relevant authorities to build a lighthouse here (or plonk a lantern on an already existing tower as was their original plan). However, the land and existing tower were owned privately by a Mr Edward Roche (a character you'll either hate or feel sorry for...) Mr Roche wasn't living in Cork at this time, his exact whereabouts a little shady. Finally Mr Roche's agent informed the authorities that he was residing in Naples, Italy as a prisoner of war and would be home (as soon as possible...). With that, the authorities twiddled their thumbs and awaited his return. They couldn't purchase or rent his land without his knowledge. Finally some political activity of some description set him free and he returned to Cork in 1815, and he wasn't happy to hear of all this lighthouse malarky. He wrote a letter stating that the tower had been built by him and his father as a 'banqueting and pleasure house' (wouldn't we all like one of those?!) and that he had spent a lot of monies to make it all very fancy. He also noted that during the American War of Independence (1776-83) it was rented out to the Government (against his desires) as it was deemed absolutely necessary for the defense of the harbor (starting to feel this chap has his tower in the wrong place at the wrong time too often) The Government paid him handsomely at 100 guineas per year for 10 years. Roche stated that if he had to give up his pleasure tower again, he would want the same terms. The authorities gave a quick reply (a big fat no) and informed him that as they required a lease long term (forever) they would want it very cheap or they would go ahead have the land valued and pay him this amount regardless of his wishes (and they had Law behind them). Needless to say he was very upset...he fought them all the way, and although he delayed them (how many ships wrecked in this time I wonder?) an inquisition was held in Cobh and the tower and land was purchased in 1816 from him for £1426. 

After all that they knocked the pleasure tower down! They decided to build a tower from scratch along with lighthouse cottages. The lighthouse was established and in working order in 1817. Of course they didn't build it big enough, and in 1835 it was knocked down and it's replacement, the current tower, was built. In 1995 it was converted to automatic and the keepers removed from the station. The lighthouse cottages are available to rent (kinda pricey but how lovely!)

We travelled there on bikes from Cork City (I know crazy). We cheated by getting in the train to Midleton with bikes and rode from there. The ride was horrible in that my bike was unsuitable for all the up and down hills, and as per usual I complained most of the way (it was really hilly!) Once you get over all the hills you hit the sea and its all good from there.

Of course the views made up for all the complaining from the ride. 

An observation; a lot of lighthouses have cows close by

Rathlin Island South Lighthouse

Located on Rathlin Island, County Antrim, Northern Ireland. Rathlin is the Northern most point of Northern Ireland (you can actually see Scotland from it!). There's a lovely walk to the South Lighthouse, which is known as Rue Lighthouse by locals. Rathlin has three lighthouses (you can imagine how excited I was!) and Rue Lighthouse is the smallest, standing at just 35 feet. A light was initially recommended here in 1914, and a temporary white double flashing light was erected, but this was wrecked in a severe storm in 1917 (kinda ironic that the structure intended to prevent wrecks in storms was wrecked in a storm...). The light was then transferred to the undamaged fog gun trestle (that no longer exists). 

A path right up to it, no climbing walls!

In 1920-21 this permanent 6 sided tower was built and was designed as an unmanned lighthouse. Although apparently two keepers were working on it and living in wooden huts when on duty. Good job really, as there can't be much room inside there with the generator! It was converted to electric in 1965 and runs from mains electricity. 

As you can see, there's ladders leading up to the front door. Of course I attempted to climb this, and it looks easy...well it isn't. The ladders are locked in such a way that it's impossible. It isn't that high, but it is very windy. I got hold of the red handles, but they are sprayed with sea water and hard to hold on to. There are several photos of me in ridiculous positions hanging from the lighthouse, I won't be including these in the blog however! 

The walk took us around an hour each way, with strange noisy birds and picturesque lakes to be seen along the way. As the lighthouse comes in to view, you may become aware that there are seals across the water with their eyes on you. All very lovely.