Mizen Head

Located at the tip of a peninsula, in the district of Carberry, West Cork, Ireland.

I had just bought a new bike, so headed out with a friend to cycle from Schull to Mizen Head, and back (50km). Back before I had a car, my trips to lighthouses were nearly always via bike, and I nearly always spent the ride cursing that I didn't have a car! Cycles to lighthouses are definitely more enjoyable though, they give you much more opportunity to experience the scenery around you. 

The tip of the peninsula is almost an island, cut off by a deep gorge. Access to the island (and the lighthouse) is via a suspension bridge (built 2009) pictured below. Mizen Head is well known for being Ireland's most southerly point, and geography books throughout history talk of the length of Ireland 'from Malin Head to Mizen Head'. Malin Head in Donegal obviously being Ireland's most northerly point. Malin Head to Mizen Head is a very popular cycle route (around 600km). Mizen Head is actually not Ireland's most southerly point despite popular belief..that title belongs to Brow Head, which is 9km south of Mizen Head! But whatever right? 

The lighthouse at Mizen Head is not very old at all, it was established in 1959. It was back in 1905 that permission to build a lighthouse here was given by the Board of Trade, but by 1906 it was decided that only a fog signal was needed at this location. In 1907 work started and a reinforced concrete bridge was built to give access to the island, the design of which was chosen from a competition (this bridge was later replaced in 2009). 1908, and still no fog signal established - the SS Trade was wrecked at Mizen Head, which the master of the vessel blamed lack of a fog signal (not his steering skills obviously). Sixty three lives were saved by a resident engineer and workmen that were at the site at the time of the wreck. 1909 the fog signal was finally established, and keepers dwellings were built. The fog signal was explosive charge that was fired at intervals, and the buildings were white washed to act as a better day mark. All went on well until 1920 when there was an armed raid on Mizen Head and nearly all the explosives were taken. No protection was offered from the government at the time, so the board had no choice but to withdraw all explosive fog signals from all the stations around the coast. Sad time for 4 years (and a few wrecks) until the fog signal was re-established in 1924. In 1931 a radio beacon (first in Ireland!) was established at Mizen (later discontinued in 1999). 1959 and a light was established at Mizen! 1968 a radio beacon (racon) was added which was swiftly followed by the fog signal being withdrawn. 1993 the light was converted to automatic and the keepers withdrawn from Mizen Head. 

Now, the Mizen Head Lighthouse is in fact, just an oversized lightbulb! It didn't require a tower building as it already stands at such a height above sea level. It was at this point I realised something about lighthouses...the tower itself is a very symbolic construction. A tower is something that we, or at least I, associate with seeing out, being up, feeling safe. It's stong and unmovable, standing tall above the sea. This lamp at Mizen Head wasn't inspiring. That doesn't take away the fact that it still serves a great purpose - guiding sea folk away from rocks, preventing many a shipwrecks, but for me, it didn't feel like a fully present lighthouse. Perhaps I'm being too harsh? The views however, awesome. 

Copper Point Lighthouse

Located on Long Island (Inishfada), an island that lies south of Schull, County Cork, Ireland. Named Long Island no doubt because it is 4.8km long and only 0.8km wide (I still managed to get lost!) A five minute ferry journey will take you to the island. You will be stuck there a few hours however, as there are only two ferry crossings in one day. There are no shops or pubs (bring a picnic) and the island has only 10 permanent residents. I met one man (whom I couldn't understand a word he spoke), and a friendly dog. 

It was erected in 1864 as an unlit beacon. It was 113 years later in 1977 that a lantern (more of a light bulb) was placed on top, and in 1981 it became an established lighthouse. 

                

I think it could well be the ugliest lighthouse in Ireland! Yes I tried to climb the ladder, but got scared. It's higher than it looks! 

Calf Rock Lighthouse

Located about 2km off Dursey Island, West Cork, Ireland. Dursey island is only accessible via cable car, and via boats, perhaps a helicopter/aircraft...oh and you could swim I suppose?....ok, let's just say Dursey island is accessible! However, there is a cable car from the mainland (the only cable car in all of Ireland) and it's pretty cool! Dursey Island has only 6 permanent all year round residents, but lots of sheep! I was told there was once a shop on the island, but it closed in 1973. 

A decision was made in 1857 (following many a shipwrecks) to construct a lighthouse off Dursey Island. Of course, these things always take time, and partly due to poor weather conditions delaying the construction, it wasn't until 1866 that the light was lit. The artwork below is of the Calf Rock Lighthouse, an almighty cast iron creation by George Halpin (famous lighthouse head). However, it didn't stay looking this way for too long...Calf Rock Lighthouse was destroyed in a storm in 1881, the top half of the tower, including the lantern, snapped off and was swept into the sea! Amazingly, no lighthouse keepers were injured (there were 6 living in dwellings built into the rock at the time). The lighthouse had already had some damage previous years due to stormy weather, and had its base strengthened in 1869 (which is the only part that remains on the rock now). Someone somewhere definitely said 'I told you so' after this event, because when Calf Rock was selected as the location for the lighthouse, many were against it - including the constructor. They all expressed the rock was too low, and that Bull Rock, a much higher rock, would be a better choice. However the powers that be ignored these concerns and went ahead with Calf Rock. It was reported that during bad weather waves did obscure the lighthouse completely, reaching up past the lantern for periods of up to 2 minutes! Which when you consider that the lighthouse was a little over 100 ft high - is pretty scary. Following the destruction of Calf Rock Lighthouse a temporary lighthouse was built on Dursey Island, and remained in use for eight years, until Bull Rock lighthouse was established in 1889 and remains in use today. Interestingly, Fastnet lighthouse was also 'rebuilt' following the destruction at Calf Rock. It was, at the time, also a cast iron tower, which they hurriedly decided just wasn't strong enough to withstand the ferocious sea. 

Artist unknown

Pictured below (and you need to use your imagination a little) are the three lighthouses. Well, two ruins and the current lighthouse. The dot on the left is Calf Rock Lighthouse, in the foreground are the remains of the temporary lighthouse (which was never given a name it seems), and to the right, its replacement, Bull Rock Lighthouse. My camera doesn't have a fancy telephoto lens, so no epic photos I'm afraid. But let me describe Calf Rock Lighthouse to you as it currently stands...a copper coloured rusty stump on a rock, that's it! 

Returning back to the night of the storm in 1881, as said, all lighthouse keepers survived. However, they spent 12 days marooned on the rock in awful conditions. Several attempts at rescues were thwarted by the raging storms, until 7 local men set out in a boat and heroically rescued all men facing treacherous sea conditions. This is a memorial recognising that rescue. 

Below is an attempt to somehow make up for the fact I have no proper photos of the lighthouse. I picked up the rock from Dursey Island, carried it homeand painted it. Ta da! As you can obviously see, my talents don't only lie with blog writing....ahem.

Photo credit John Eagle

Ballinacourty Point Lighthouse

Located in Ballinacourty, a rural area on the southern coast of Ireland, near Dungarvan, County Waterford. This lighthouse stands guard at the entrance to Dungarvan Harbour. 

The lighthouse was built in 1858 on request of merchants and ship owners to guide ships into Dungarvan Bay. It's short in stature, and well maintained, having obviously been painted bright white recently (it was practically glowing). Interesting side note; I met the official 'lighthouse painter' on another adventure, Junior Murphy. I'm still waiting for his call back about getting me into Fastnet....

When looking at the map, we were put off thinking that the lighthouse was bounded by a pesky golfcourse...which it is. However, there is a road leading from a public road to the lighthouse, and it just so happened that the gate was open! It seems there is someone living in the cottage beside the lighthouse...there was a car parked there and signs of life inside. I was too shy to knock on the door and ask of their connection to the lighthouse...maybe next time! There is a gate (unlocked) that leads to a stone pier out to the sea, that's where the photo below was taken. Nice views from this spot. Driving there is easy, but parking in Dungarvan town and walking along Clonea beach to the lighthouse a nice way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Blackhead Lighthouse

Located in the Burren (landscape of rocks, stones and hard surfaces) which forms the northern part of County Clare, Ireland.

"Not a tree whereon to hang a man; no water in which to drown him; no soil in which to bury him." 

 A description of the Burren from Ludow's Memoirs 1651 (a little dramatic, but you get the idea...the burren is barren).

The cycle; well as usual I hadn't properly researched this. It was late in the afternoon that day when we decided to embark on the journey. My memory tells me I was suffering with a debilitating condition; Hangover. Sure, we were at a pub in Doolin when we decided to set off. I distinctly remember saying 'really, it can only be 30 minutes cycle, we'll be back in no time'...famous last words. The cycle was actually close to 20km...each way! And not only that, it was mighty hills. There may have been blood, there was definitely sweat and tears.

The lighthouse as you might expect is right on the coast, close to shore, behind a wall (this might make you miss it altogether). Push pass the gate that says 'caution, no entry', and walk down the stone steps to the lighthouse. It was established on 21st February 1936. In 2002 it was changed to a solar powered light. You get a spectacular view of the west coast from here, which is more than I can say about the lighthouse (it's quite ugly right?)

Charles Fort Lighthouse

Located within Charles Fort, Kinsale, County Cork. This is my most frequented lighthouse as it is the shortest distance from my front door than any other lighthouse (at the moment) Just a 30 minute drive. 

Photo by Rory Bhandari

It functions as a directional light, marking the way to safe anchorage close to Kinsale. In 1665 King Charles II gave permission for six lighthouses on the coast of Ireland to be erected. This location being one of them (which back then would have been Barry Oge's castle, later to become Charles Fort).The original structure would have had a coal fire on its roof (in which case the term 'firehouse' seems more appropriate than lighthouse?) The current structure was built as a replacement in 1929, which makes it much younger than other lighthouses on this coast, most of which date back to the 19th century.  

It was converted to mains power in 2004 marking the end of a long era of gas and oil powered lighthouses in Ireland. 

I like this lighthouse, mostly because you can climb it (strictly speaking you shouldn't, but you can't really be seen once you're up there). The view is amazing and you can swing your legs off the side and look out towards the Old Head. 

A flask is recommended too!

Mine Head Lighthouse

Located in Old Parish, County Waterford. This lighthouse was designed by George Halpin Senior, who was a prominent lighthouse builder of his time (considered the founding father of the Irish lighthouse service). Mine Head lighthouse was established on the 1st June 1851 (same day as Ballycotton lighthouse!), and it's looking pretty good to say it's that old. It is a red standstone structure, painted white with a black band (but you can see that right?) While reading up on the history, it was described as a 'four stage lighthouse'...I can assume this means it has 4 levels, including the top level, which would be the lantern. It is said to be Ireland's highest lighthouse! Not to be confused with tallest, it's all to do with sea level and such... being higher above sea level (88m) than any other lighthouse in Ireland. You'd believe it when you see how steep the cliffs are...

Getting there was quite tricky...I'm lucky I had a navigator accompanying me that could help read the map. The roads are many, and we could have turned wrong a few times. We were a little hesitant, but persisted past a farmhouse for about a mile and reached the lighthouse gate (and a few cows). Yes, there's a gate, a tall one. We climbed over, then on leaving, realised it was actually open....

I like Mine Head in particular because it brings together two of my favourite things...lighthouses and beer! Dungarvan Brewing Company produces Irish craft beers, and have Mine Head as their logo (hence why it's my favourite beer to drink out). They have various varieties including stout, red ale, pale ale and a larger and some others. They have one aptly named 'Mine Head', it's an American pale ale, it's pretty tasty! 

  

Cromwell Point Lighthouse (Valentia Island)

Located on Valentia Island, County Kerry, Ireland. A hop, skip and a jump from the Ring of Kerry. We got the ferry over with bikes from Reenard Point, though you can also get across via a bridge from Portmagee. Valentia is far from a bike riders dream...hills and bumpy roads. The long winding road down to the lighthouse (pictured below) was no exception. Riding down was great, riding back up was a slow, painful torture. 

Cromwell Point Lighthouse is maintained by the Commissioner of Irish Lights and is a harbour light to guide vessels from the sea and lead them through the northern entrance of Valentia Harbour, past Harbour Rock.

The site of the lighthouse was originally home to a Cromwell Fleetwood Fort believed to have been built in the 16th century, which was one of two built of Valentia Island around this time.

The first light for Cromwell Point was first applied for in 1828 by the Right Honorary Maurice Fitzgerald (Knight of Kerry!) Work commenced on the lighthouse ten years later in 1838, the light was first exhibited on the 1st February 1941. 

Originally the lighthouse was staffed by a single keeper, housed with his family on site. However with automation in 1947 the keeper was withdrawn and a part time attendant was appointed. 

In  June 2013 the lighthouse was opened to the public (unknown to us), and this is the time we were visiting. We arrived at the gate on our bikes and were shocked to see the gates were open (never the case with lighthouses).  We speedily cycled in, eager to get to the lighthouse, when suddenly we heard shouting behind us...apparently we had to pay in and be part of a tour. I was delighted, as this would lead to a rare opportunity to get inside a lighthouse!

I'd recommend Valentia Island to all, even if you don't make it to the lighthouse. It is also the home to a tetrapod track (footprints from some animal believed to have been created 350 million years ago!). It's of high importance discovery wise as it provides some of the oldest evidence of a water dwelling creature crawling out of the water and making an evolutionary step towards land dwelling. 

Ardnakinna Lighthouse

Located on Bere Island, an Island off the Beara Peninsula in County Cork, Ireland. A ferry takes you over to the island from Castletownbere. We rented bikes and brought them onto the ferry, thinking that since we were short on time (2 hours until the last ferry departs) it would be a speedy means of getting to the lighthouse. I actually don't like riding bikes, but when it comes to lighthouses they are handy...BUT, (and it is a big but) we shortly reached a point in our journey that no bike could continue on. We abandoned the bikes and continued on foot. I should really start researching the lighthouses and routes before, not after the expedition.

So given I didn't know how far the lighthouse was, we were walking pretty briskly, while also trying to take in all the stunning scenery! And every time we approached a hill, I filled with excitement and hope that there would be a lighthouse over it (I think Dominika was even excited). That moment came just in time, as we were approaching 'we should probably head back soon' kinda conversations...

OK, so the lighthouse itself...it's big! The tower was originally constructed in 1850 as an unlit beacon to mark the entrance to Castletownbere. It was left in the care of a local man, who remained the caretaker until 1963 when the tower was capped and 'his services dispensed with' (doesn't that sound horrible?).

115 years passed, and there was a lot of talk over whether this beacon would come back to life..finally in 1965 the beacon was converted into a full and almighty lighthouse with the addition of an ex-lightship lantern (see up-cycling has been going on for years already). 

The lighthouse is looked after by an attendant who lives at Castletownbere helicopter base. He is also the attendant for two other lights...cool job (where do I apply?!). He is a messy guy though, this lighthouse junk was in the surrounding area. The lighthouse has recently turned green in that it's removal of the diesal generator and installation of fancy low power LED has made it eco friendly. I'm thinking this junk is what's left from the transition... I looked for something cool to steal, but it really was just junk. 

If your not a lighthousey person, I'd still highly reccomend this walk to the lighthouse. The views from this point are nothing but beautiful, even on a somewhat foggy day. With views across to Sheep's Head and Mizen Head you may even spot some more lighthouses!