Mizen Head

Located at the tip of a peninsula, in the district of Carberry, West Cork, Ireland.

I had just bought a new bike, so headed out with a friend to cycle from Schull to Mizen Head, and back (50km). Back before I had a car, my trips to lighthouses were nearly always via bike, and I nearly always spent the ride cursing that I didn't have a car! Cycles to lighthouses are definitely more enjoyable though, they give you much more opportunity to experience the scenery around you. 

The tip of the peninsula is almost an island, cut off by a deep gorge. Access to the island (and the lighthouse) is via a suspension bridge (built 2009) pictured below. Mizen Head is well known for being Ireland's most southerly point, and geography books throughout history talk of the length of Ireland 'from Malin Head to Mizen Head'. Malin Head in Donegal obviously being Ireland's most northerly point. Malin Head to Mizen Head is a very popular cycle route (around 600km). Mizen Head is actually not Ireland's most southerly point despite popular belief..that title belongs to Brow Head, which is 9km south of Mizen Head! But whatever right? 

The lighthouse at Mizen Head is not very old at all, it was established in 1959. It was back in 1905 that permission to build a lighthouse here was given by the Board of Trade, but by 1906 it was decided that only a fog signal was needed at this location. In 1907 work started and a reinforced concrete bridge was built to give access to the island, the design of which was chosen from a competition (this bridge was later replaced in 2009). 1908, and still no fog signal established - the SS Trade was wrecked at Mizen Head, which the master of the vessel blamed lack of a fog signal (not his steering skills obviously). Sixty three lives were saved by a resident engineer and workmen that were at the site at the time of the wreck. 1909 the fog signal was finally established, and keepers dwellings were built. The fog signal was explosive charge that was fired at intervals, and the buildings were white washed to act as a better day mark. All went on well until 1920 when there was an armed raid on Mizen Head and nearly all the explosives were taken. No protection was offered from the government at the time, so the board had no choice but to withdraw all explosive fog signals from all the stations around the coast. Sad time for 4 years (and a few wrecks) until the fog signal was re-established in 1924. In 1931 a radio beacon (first in Ireland!) was established at Mizen (later discontinued in 1999). 1959 and a light was established at Mizen! 1968 a radio beacon (racon) was added which was swiftly followed by the fog signal being withdrawn. 1993 the light was converted to automatic and the keepers withdrawn from Mizen Head. 

Now, the Mizen Head Lighthouse is in fact, just an oversized lightbulb! It didn't require a tower building as it already stands at such a height above sea level. It was at this point I realised something about lighthouses...the tower itself is a very symbolic construction. A tower is something that we, or at least I, associate with seeing out, being up, feeling safe. It's stong and unmovable, standing tall above the sea. This lamp at Mizen Head wasn't inspiring. That doesn't take away the fact that it still serves a great purpose - guiding sea folk away from rocks, preventing many a shipwrecks, but for me, it didn't feel like a fully present lighthouse. Perhaps I'm being too harsh? The views however, awesome.