Blacksod Lighthouse

On the southeast corner of the Mullet Peninsula (perhaps the most hilariously named peninsula in Ireland?) in County Mayo on Ireland’s west coast stands Blacksod lighthouse. A short, two storey building with a square tower, which is quite unusual for a lighthouse tower. 

Built in 1865 with locally quarried reddish-grey granite. Over the years, this granite was shipped all over the world. The lighthouse began operating in 1866 to make Blacksod Bay safer for mariners. The structure also served as a post office from 1969-1972, while a new building was being built, becoming (quite possibly) the only Irish-lighthouse-turned-post-office! 

Myself and my brother had been camping at Broadhaven lighthouse the night before, and drove down to Blacksod around 730am after a very, very wet and windy night in the tent! The sun was shining, and to our delight the door to the lighthouse building was open. Not one to miss an opportunity to step inside a lighthouse - I knocked loudly on the open door. Two men came to the door and I very confidently asked if we could come in! They were part of a maintenance team, and one man explained he has family ties to the lighthouse: The Sweeny family. His dad had been a keeper there for many years. They invited us in and took us up the tower and spoke about the history of the lighthouse. We were so grateful, and exhausted I’m not sure I even explained I have a blog. 

Probably the most popular Blacksod lighthouse story, and one that was shared with us that day, is the story of the Blacksod lighthouse keeper that gave the weather forecast, that enabled General Eisenhower to make a decision to land Allied forces in Normandy, France, on D-Day, June 6th 1944. Meteorologists had predicted a week of bad weather for France at the beginning of June. The Germans believed this forecast and Field Marshall Rommel left the front lines in France to visit his family in Germany. The lighthouse keeper at Blacksod lighthouse predicted a mid-week break in the weather and Eisenhower acted on the prediction. This demonstrates the important job lighthouse keepers held at the time in recording accurate weather reports on a daily basis. 

The lighthouse was automated in 1999, and now also serves as a helicopter base for nearby lighthouses Blackrock and Eagle Island. 

Tarbert Habour Light

Located on a tidal rock in the Shannon Estuary, on the northern side of Tarbert Island, County Kerry. A seventy four ft tower established in 1834. Although technically termed a 'harbour light', it certainly looks like a fully fledged lighthouse to me. There are not many lighthouses I've seen with such a distinctly formed taper. 

Built at the request of Limerick Merchants the habour light was deemed necessary to light a treacherous turn in the river and help mark the southern entrance to Clonderalaw Bay to the northeast. The connecting sixty one metre cast-iron footbridge was not constructed until 1841. Not sure this photo captures it - but I've climbed a many gates on adventuring to lighthouses, none have been so small, cute and open as this one!

Small accessible gates aside, this is no place for a casual visitor. In fact, a structure that would have one time towered above every building around, now appears dwarfed beside the neighbouring chimneys of the ESB station behind it. Its light, just a glow in the ESB galaxy. You would wonder of the necessity of a lighthouse there at all now, but nautical traditions (thankfully) die hard, and it is still in operation today, but instead of being maintained by the Commissioners of Irish Lights, it is under the care of the Limerick Habour Commissioners. Not that it matters much to the reader, because this lighthouse is on ESB property (shakes fist) and therefore tricky to get to.

I was lucky to have a friend in tow on this excursion, with a family member in the know of the area, and the power station itself (having worked there himself once upon a time). Discussions were had on the eve of the trip out to Tarbert, and a plan of action was made. Plan (A) being 'lets walk along coast there and see how close we can get'. That's indeed what we did, alas - we were tantalizingly close, but power station workers and a definite feeling of 'keep out' prevented us from climbing any further. Plan (B) was to approach the security guard and ask permission to access the lighthouse. I gingerly walked up to his booth and politely asked about access to the lighthouse, he looked at me, sternly 'this is private property', my friend piped up 'she's writing a book on Irish Lighthouses, she wants to get closer to take photos for the book (never mind the fact I forgot my camera on this trip!). He picks up a phone 'let me see what I can do'. He explains the situation very matter of factly to someone on the other end. 'You can go, he must be in a good mood today', and he directed our passage through the incredibly ugly buildings to the lighthouse. 'It's gated up now, you wont get to the lighthouse, but you'll get close'. Smiles and words of gratitude directed to him as we set off.

Indeed there was a fence, and of course, we got through it, and walked along the bridge right up to the lighthouse. We stayed for around thirty minutes and made our way back. The security guard (Michael O'Connell) was eager to talk to us on our return, now smiling. He spoke of his work, the power station (which is now British owned and only in use during peak demands), the lighthouse, the wildlife and asked about my blog. I passed on my email and blog address to which he responded 'I'll have my daughter help me look it up'. So if you're reading this Michael, hello, and thank you again! I hope your Sycamore is doing well! 

Mizen Head

Located at the tip of a peninsula, in the district of Carberry, West Cork, Ireland.

I had just bought a new bike, so headed out with a friend to cycle from Schull to Mizen Head, and back (50km). Back before I had a car, my trips to lighthouses were nearly always via bike, and I nearly always spent the ride cursing that I didn't have a car! Cycles to lighthouses are definitely more enjoyable though, they give you much more opportunity to experience the scenery around you. 

The tip of the peninsula is almost an island, cut off by a deep gorge. Access to the island (and the lighthouse) is via a suspension bridge (built 2009) pictured below. Mizen Head is well known for being Ireland's most southerly point, and geography books throughout history talk of the length of Ireland 'from Malin Head to Mizen Head'. Malin Head in Donegal obviously being Ireland's most northerly point. Malin Head to Mizen Head is a very popular cycle route (around 600km). Mizen Head is actually not Ireland's most southerly point despite popular belief..that title belongs to Brow Head, which is 9km south of Mizen Head! But whatever right? 

The lighthouse at Mizen Head is not very old at all, it was established in 1959. It was back in 1905 that permission to build a lighthouse here was given by the Board of Trade, but by 1906 it was decided that only a fog signal was needed at this location. In 1907 work started and a reinforced concrete bridge was built to give access to the island, the design of which was chosen from a competition (this bridge was later replaced in 2009). 1908, and still no fog signal established - the SS Trade was wrecked at Mizen Head, which the master of the vessel blamed lack of a fog signal (not his steering skills obviously). Sixty three lives were saved by a resident engineer and workmen that were at the site at the time of the wreck. 1909 the fog signal was finally established, and keepers dwellings were built. The fog signal was explosive charge that was fired at intervals, and the buildings were white washed to act as a better day mark. All went on well until 1920 when there was an armed raid on Mizen Head and nearly all the explosives were taken. No protection was offered from the government at the time, so the board had no choice but to withdraw all explosive fog signals from all the stations around the coast. Sad time for 4 years (and a few wrecks) until the fog signal was re-established in 1924. In 1931 a radio beacon (first in Ireland!) was established at Mizen (later discontinued in 1999). 1959 and a light was established at Mizen! 1968 a radio beacon (racon) was added which was swiftly followed by the fog signal being withdrawn. 1993 the light was converted to automatic and the keepers withdrawn from Mizen Head. 

Now, the Mizen Head Lighthouse is in fact, just an oversized lightbulb! It didn't require a tower building as it already stands at such a height above sea level. It was at this point I realised something about lighthouses...the tower itself is a very symbolic construction. A tower is something that we, or at least I, associate with seeing out, being up, feeling safe. It's stong and unmovable, standing tall above the sea. This lamp at Mizen Head wasn't inspiring. That doesn't take away the fact that it still serves a great purpose - guiding sea folk away from rocks, preventing many a shipwrecks, but for me, it didn't feel like a fully present lighthouse. Perhaps I'm being too harsh? The views however, awesome. 

Copper Point Lighthouse

Located on Long Island (Inishfada), an island that lies south of Schull, County Cork, Ireland. Named Long Island no doubt because it is 4.8km long and only 0.8km wide (I still managed to get lost!) A five minute ferry journey will take you to the island. You will be stuck there a few hours however, as there are only two ferry crossings in one day. There are no shops or pubs (bring a picnic) and the island has only 10 permanent residents. I met one man (whom I couldn't understand a word he spoke), and a friendly dog. 

It was erected in 1864 as an unlit beacon. It was 113 years later in 1977 that a lantern (more of a light bulb) was placed on top, and in 1981 it became an established lighthouse. 

                

I think it could well be the ugliest lighthouse in Ireland! Yes I tried to climb the ladder, but got scared. It's higher than it looks! 

Calf Rock Lighthouse

Located about 2km off Dursey Island, West Cork, Ireland. Dursey island is only accessible via cable car, and via boats, perhaps a helicopter/aircraft...oh and you could swim I suppose?....ok, let's just say Dursey island is accessible! However, there is a cable car from the mainland (the only cable car in all of Ireland) and it's pretty cool! Dursey Island has only 6 permanent all year round residents, but lots of sheep! I was told there was once a shop on the island, but it closed in 1973. 

A decision was made in 1857 (following many a shipwrecks) to construct a lighthouse off Dursey Island. Of course, these things always take time, and partly due to poor weather conditions delaying the construction, it wasn't until 1866 that the light was lit. The artwork below is of the Calf Rock Lighthouse, an almighty cast iron creation by George Halpin (famous lighthouse head). However, it didn't stay looking this way for too long...Calf Rock Lighthouse was destroyed in a storm in 1881, the top half of the tower, including the lantern, snapped off and was swept into the sea! Amazingly, no lighthouse keepers were injured (there were 6 living in dwellings built into the rock at the time). The lighthouse had already had some damage previous years due to stormy weather, and had its base strengthened in 1869 (which is the only part that remains on the rock now). Someone somewhere definitely said 'I told you so' after this event, because when Calf Rock was selected as the location for the lighthouse, many were against it - including the constructor. They all expressed the rock was too low, and that Bull Rock, a much higher rock, would be a better choice. However the powers that be ignored these concerns and went ahead with Calf Rock. It was reported that during bad weather waves did obscure the lighthouse completely, reaching up past the lantern for periods of up to 2 minutes! Which when you consider that the lighthouse was a little over 100 ft high - is pretty scary. Following the destruction of Calf Rock Lighthouse a temporary lighthouse was built on Dursey Island, and remained in use for eight years, until Bull Rock lighthouse was established in 1889 and remains in use today. Interestingly, Fastnet lighthouse was also 'rebuilt' following the destruction at Calf Rock. It was, at the time, also a cast iron tower, which they hurriedly decided just wasn't strong enough to withstand the ferocious sea. 

Artist unknown

Pictured below (and you need to use your imagination a little) are the three lighthouses. Well, two ruins and the current lighthouse. The dot on the left is Calf Rock Lighthouse, in the foreground are the remains of the temporary lighthouse (which was never given a name it seems), and to the right, its replacement, Bull Rock Lighthouse. My camera doesn't have a fancy telephoto lens, so no epic photos I'm afraid. But let me describe Calf Rock Lighthouse to you as it currently stands...a copper coloured rusty stump on a rock, that's it! 

Returning back to the night of the storm in 1881, as said, all lighthouse keepers survived. However, they spent 12 days marooned on the rock in awful conditions. Several attempts at rescues were thwarted by the raging storms, until 7 local men set out in a boat and heroically rescued all men facing treacherous sea conditions. This is a memorial recognising that rescue. 

Below is an attempt to somehow make up for the fact I have no proper photos of the lighthouse. I picked up the rock from Dursey Island, carried it homeand painted it. Ta da! As you can obviously see, my talents don't only lie with blog writing....ahem.

Photo credit John Eagle

Ballinacourty Point Lighthouse

Located in Ballinacourty, a rural area on the southern coast of Ireland, near Dungarvan, County Waterford. This lighthouse stands guard at the entrance to Dungarvan Harbour. 

The lighthouse was built in 1858 on request of merchants and ship owners to guide ships into Dungarvan Bay. It's short in stature, and well maintained, having obviously been painted bright white recently (it was practically glowing). Interesting side note; I met the official 'lighthouse painter' on another adventure, Junior Murphy. I'm still waiting for his call back about getting me into Fastnet....

When looking at the map, we were put off thinking that the lighthouse was bounded by a pesky golfcourse...which it is. However, there is a road leading from a public road to the lighthouse, and it just so happened that the gate was open! It seems there is someone living in the cottage beside the lighthouse...there was a car parked there and signs of life inside. I was too shy to knock on the door and ask of their connection to the lighthouse...maybe next time! There is a gate (unlocked) that leads to a stone pier out to the sea, that's where the photo below was taken. Nice views from this spot. Driving there is easy, but parking in Dungarvan town and walking along Clonea beach to the lighthouse a nice way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Blackhead Lighthouse

Located in the Burren (landscape of rocks, stones and hard surfaces) which forms the northern part of County Clare, Ireland.

"Not a tree whereon to hang a man; no water in which to drown him; no soil in which to bury him." 

 A description of the Burren from Ludow's Memoirs 1651 (a little dramatic, but you get the idea...the burren is barren).

The cycle; well as usual I hadn't properly researched this. It was late in the afternoon that day when we decided to embark on the journey. My memory tells me I was suffering with a debilitating condition; Hangover. Sure, we were at a pub in Doolin when we decided to set off. I distinctly remember saying 'really, it can only be 30 minutes cycle, we'll be back in no time'...famous last words. The cycle was actually close to 20km...each way! And not only that, it was mighty hills. There may have been blood, there was definitely sweat and tears.

The lighthouse as you might expect is right on the coast, close to shore, behind a wall (this might make you miss it altogether). Push pass the gate that says 'caution, no entry', and walk down the stone steps to the lighthouse. It was established on 21st February 1936. In 2002 it was changed to a solar powered light. You get a spectacular view of the west coast from here, which is more than I can say about the lighthouse (it's quite ugly right?)